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Building new Repetier firmware for a delta printer (D-force) So my printer's calibration got screwed after a sudden reboot and since the current firmware (0.92.6) is licensed, I cannot edit it. So I'm building a new one. These are the controller boards of my printer: 1. Main controller board: The black board is a ...	You, obviously, do actually have a Z-probe, but in case another user does not, or you decide not to use yours, I will cover both cases (with and without a Z-probe). Z-probe not present If not, then in configuration.h set the FEATURE_Z_PROBE to false, like this: #define FEATURE_Z_PROBE false or #define FEATURE_Z...
How to change the extrusion value (E parameter) in G-code? Before I ask you my question I want to summarize my problem. I am trying to build my personal 3D Printer and I can send the controller of my Extruder (Motor) only integer values. Slicer (Cura) produces fractions. I try to interprete these values as RPM. That me...	Yes, it is possible to influence values of the E-parameter, even to make them integers. I see three possibilities: force firmware to support units smaller than mm - suggested approach force slicer to produce integer-like values - most of below explanation change meaning of E - custom approach, including RPM interpreta...
Tetrahedral honeycomb? I have an idea for a 3D printed project, but I'm a total noob in this area and need someone to reality check it for me. Basically what I want to do is a tricopter frame made of a tetrahedral honeycomb. The whole model would be within 30 * 30 * 10 cm, the honeycomb edges would be approximately 1...	For designing your part, especially considering the repetitive mathematics involved, I would consider to learn to use OpenSCAD. I've learned the program and it fits your modeling requirement quite well. I feel it's easy to learn and is somewhat easier for folks who have a programming background. I don't have one, but i...
How to set the fully dynamic plotting area? I am trying to combine CNC plotter with image processing. The goal is to detect the object and print on that object. My question is can we set the fully dynamic plotting area. For example: I want to print something on hand or finger. How do I tell the machine that this is han...	If the problem of "dynamic area", or even "how to avoid missing the surface and boundaries" could be translated to "where to start well-defined job" - then it sounds to me like common task, with regards to philosophy of CNC machines. (Ok, until the surface is not moving around.) Pronterfac...
How do I calculate the cost of a 3D print once it's done? How do I determine how much an individual print costs? I'd like an answer including support material, failed prints, and (ideally) wear and tear / printer maintenance costs. To clarify, I'm not asking how to predict the cost before printing, but rather how to ...	For FDM printing: Both Cura and Makerbot Desktop (and perhaps others I'm not as familiar with) will give you a preview of both the length and weight of your print, including supports/rafts. Once the print is done you can weigh it on a kitchen scale. PLA Filament currently runs about \$23/kg on Amazon, which works ou...
Prusa HE3D Xi3 missing step on x and y axis I am using Prusa HE3D Xi3. While printing after 5 or 6 layers it misses the step on x and y axis. Can anybody explain what is the reason?	There's a possibility that your power supply lags after a while, the quality of power supplies on cheaper 3D printers are sometimes an issue. There's also a possible that the stepper motor drivers aren't putting out enough power. This can be adjusted by turning the trimmer on the driver, check the printer documentatio...
Ideal print bed: Glass or Aluminium? Glass is always level, easy to clean, easy to work with. Aluminium allows for the addition of automatic bed leveling with an inductive sensor and distributes heat a little more evenly. When printing mostly ABS and PLA, which one is better?	I believe printing directly on aluminium is unwise, simply because it will expand when heated, typically giving the bed a concave or convex shape. Glass, on the other hand, does not (at least not significantly). As pointed out in the comments below, the heat expansion of aluminium could potentially be mitigated by inc...
Why Cura flattens first layer of round objects? When i am creating g file with Cura, it always flattens the first layer of round edges touching the plate. Is problem Cura or is there any setting that i can solve this? Thanks, Veysel :)	All models must be sliced horizontally into layers in order to be printed, and each layer is flat. That is simply the bottom layer. Since you are printing a cylinder, you could always rotate it by 90 degrees, and stand it on its end (before you slice it, naturally). You should always consider the best orientation for p...
MKS board losing power after endstop installation I just bought an MKS gen v1.3, and everything on it works fine except for when I plug in the endstops. My X endstop works perfectly in every endstop outlet, but when I plug in my Z and Y endstops, the entire board loses power. Immediately after I unplug the endstop, the...	Have you tried plugging in the plugging the Z and/or Y end stops into the X position? This could tell you if it's actually the end stops or the board. EDIT: Also, if the Z and/or Y end stops seem to work just fine in the X position, ensure you have the X position filled and try the other end stops in the Z & Y pos...
Print quality of Kossel clone for Print in Place models My first printer is Delta style Kossel clone and I have bad luck with Print In Place (PIP) models, especially with hinges. I suspect that my printer just can't achieve low enough tolerances to make the hinges work. Are there any tricks I can employ to get better...	Delta printers are considered to be able to be accurate printers cause of the limited weight in the head (using Bowden extruder setup). The positioning can be very accurate (limited weight, limited overshooting) and because of the limited amount of weight, the print speed can be increased. An interesting paper has bee...
Ender 5 Pro bent/curved print on base Ender 5 Pro prints are very uneven on base of the model. In this example I printed an SD card dummy but it is not even flat. Having a glass bed it is super strange to see this kind of behaviour. Here are parameters in Cura. M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E94.5 ;Setup step mm M201 X500.0...	This is a classic example of not enough adhesion. Tune bed temperature (usually hotter), use a brim or add an adhesive layer like glue stick or hair spray or a dedicated print adhesion spray. The question "Warping of bottom of print" has an accepted answer that explains in detail how and why this occurs.
TAIG CNC - Z axis getting bound First of all I apologize if this stack exchange site isn't the proper spot for CNC questions but I do not see any other ones that are close. If the community feels this is too far off topic then just let me know and I will remove this question. Even though this is for a CNC machine, the...	So inside the Z axis is a brass component that is connected to the threaded rod (lead screw). This brass component has 3 screws and depending how tight / loose, determines how much it will bind up. You of course don't want it too loose otherwise the enclosure will "jump" off of the track at times. In my case, the two ...
How to solve burnt blobs on Prusa MK3S (PETG)? As stated above, I am trying to solve a problem I've had for a long time. Unfortunately, this has recently intensified to the point where it causes layer splitting/detaching from each other. I have tried various ways to fix this and, while decreasing the temperature and ex...	I saw PETG printed at 100 mm/s, but 150! That's a lot. One solution to avoid blobs may be to limit the maximum speed to a value you can actually achieve with reliable results. Simple test to find your machine limits (each combination filament brand + nozzle + temperature has a different value): extrude filament in th...
What is wrong with this angle? I'm trying to print a model that looks like this: at a size of approximately 10"x7"x7". I've tried 3 times now, with various different infill and shell settings, and had it fail all 3 times in the same way at the same point: right at the point where the central column begins to angle ...	Hex infill patterns are normally chosen for strength, as the honeycomb resists force in many directions. However, hex infill patterns are slow to print and the older, simpler fill patterns print faster and provide sufficient support for solid architectural models. Models with shallow roof angles of less than 45 degree...
Upgrade hot-end to achieve higher temps (e.g. for PETG) I'm struggling to get my printer to the temps required for modified PETG (the filament I have is Fillamentum CPE and recommends 255-275 °C), I currently can only reach 245/250 °C even if my target temperature is above that. The hot-end is fully ceramic wrapped and...	Most PETG reacts vey badly to temperatures above 255. The typical optimal PETG temperature ranges from 225 to 245. Above that it gets sticky... If PETG is your goal, you might want to find a filament that is more friendly to your printer. They are pretty cheap, and now you have transitioned to an all-metal hot end, yo...
Solidoodle 4 voltage requirements I have a solidoodle 4 and have blown the power supply . Long and the short of it is I am trying to modify a Xbox 1 power supply to fulfill the need. I am measuring he voltage at the output and its 14.04 volt. Question is this, is the operational voltage range on a solidoodle able to o...	I have not used or seen a solidoodle 4, but as found on the internet, the controller board used in the printer is a version of the Sanguinololu, and the reprap wiki says that The board is designed to be flexible in its power source, working with a 12V/5V ATX power supply or any 7V-35V power source via the on-boar...
Y-min stay triggered I have a FLSUN i3 220x220x240 with: an 2004 LCD (RepRap Discount Smart Controller) an MKS-gen-L-v1.0 printer board running Marlin firmware 2.0.5.x 3D touch sensor, a filament runout sensor. Everything works fine but for the mechanical Y-min switch: it stays triggered. (M119) YMIN worked under ...	This MKS-GEN-L board is in essence a plain RAMPS board, and as such it uses the same pinout apart from some specific pins. Do note the include of the RAMPS pinout in the MKS-GEN-L at the end of the file. From your comment you have changed the pins 14 and 15, in doing so, you need to plug the Y-min endstop in the Y-ma...
What are the dimensions of the FlashForge Creator Pro heating block? I have a FlashForge Creator Pro, couple of years old. I'm looking to replace one or both of the heating blocks, as they're getting old and pretty gunked up. Instead of buying two blocks at \$30 each, I thought I could take some aluminum and make two...	The FlashForge Creator Pro uses a MK10 hotend: The Micro Swiss MK10 All Metal Hotend Kit for instance is reported to be a drop-in replacement for the FlashForge Creator Pro, it uses M7 threads. The heater block for an MK10 has a threaded hole for the thermistor (M4), but some use a machined hole for PT100/3 mm thermis...
Thermal runaway on extruder hotend I am getting thermal runaway even after PID autotunning many times. I tried 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 cycles and after reuploading FW onto the printer but I still get the error... I've built a copy of Prusa's i3 mk2 by following Building the cheapest possible Prusa i3 MK2. I have trie...	If a temperature of (rounded) 201 °C is triggering TRP, then one of three things is the culprit: The TRP Hysteresis is awfully trigger happy. See What is Thermal Runaway Protection? Your Heater cartridge is not properly mounted and has a bad connection to the heater block and upon heating and expecting a much higher ...
Dual extruder with gear shifting I am planning to upgrade my printer with a second extruder. Since my printer is a Tronxy X8 it's frame is not exactly vibration resistant, so I'd like to keep the print head weight down. At the same time I really don't want a Bowden setup. I came up with the idea of making a dual extrud...	You'll need a custom firmware. Yur custom firmware will have to react to the "Change extruder" command differently than a normal firmware: instead of just swapping to a different extruder, you'll need to perform some operations to alter the gearing (possibly a solenoid?), and possibly include some kind of &qu...
Printrbot simple metal not auto leveling I have a printrbot simple metal with the heated bed upgrade. Its been working fine until Cura updated, now, after the x,y, and z axis zeros, the print starts without moving to the other corners and auto leveling the bed. Does the new version of cura require me to turn the functi...	See if you can check what the starting G-Code is. I havn't used Cura but what I think has changed for you is that your new software is homing just using the G28 command and not the G29 command. I think if you can look into your slicer settings you will find an option to change what the starting gcode is and you will p...
Advice on power supply wiring for the UK I've been looking at the Ender series and decided to take the plunge. But I'm unsure on electrical matters. The 110 or 220 volt switch, I assume goes to 220 V as I live in the UK but my main question is, from what I've read they come with an EU plug and a uk adapter, is it ...	The fuse may be academic, because there might be an integrated fuseholder in the PSU itself. That said, adding another fuse in the form of a proper UK plug certainly won't hurt. I'd certainly do this, too. Fuseless plugs have no place in my home/workplace For the rest - yes, the 220V position for the switch is good....
Height of the prints are always larger This problem is driving me crazy, no, seriously speaking. I bought this printer this week and started to calibrate for accurate dimensions. I printed the one-and-only calibration cube (20x20x20 also a 10x10x10) and well, the dimensions for the X & Y axis are perfect, but the Z...	Since nobody had any idea what cause the problem, I investigated for a full week. The problem is related to Fade Height and .... a warp bed, since I have ABL (Auto Bed Levelling) and Fade Height enable. The compensation was way too big, something like -1.4 or bigger. So, after I bought a new glass bed and set the fade ...
Clear coating resin 3D prints I'm looking to put a UV-blocking clear coating on some of my resin 3D prints. I've tried krylon UV-Resistant Clear Coating but it seemed to react with my print making it softer and easy to break. I'm trying to coat a thin Lithophane so I would rather not make it any softer. Are there any b...	I'd go for the easy option of using a composite setup: Acrylic lacquers themselves are very low reactive and can serve as a foundation before the UV clear coating is applied. The acrylic lacquer itself doesn't change coloration if exposed to sunlight, but the light can still pass and discolor the lithophane. Your Krylo...
Prusa i3 MK3 latest release first layer calibration issues I am trying to get my first layer calibrating done but no matter what I do, I can not get the lines sticking to the bed. My first question is the distance of the P.I.N.D.A. What I did was what Prusa recommends on this pic: I am using Prusa Slic3r with PLA ...	Calibrating the first layer height involves two steps: The first step, as illustrated in that picture, is to adjust the PINDA probe to be roughly the right distance above the nozzle. The PINDA only has a sensing range of about a millimeter, so if it's too high, it can't detect the printbed; if it's too low, it will i...
No stepper motor movement on Ender 3 Pro I've recently updated my Ender 3 Pro to the latest Marlin 2.0 firmware and when I press autohome or try to move the axis, I hear a very quiet noise from the motors trying to move and then they just don't. I did get an error message about EEPROM when I first booted the printer af...	This is theoretical assumption, but I suppose that your steps/mm values are now wrong in EEPROM - specifically they are set to 0 (zeroed steps per mm)? Could you please use LCD and navigate to Configuration > Advanced Settings > Steps per mm and check what values are set there? If there are zeros, could you set t...
Tevo Michelangelo nozzle below build plate? I got a Tevo Michelangelo as first 3D printer today and already got a problem with the bed leveling: The extruder nozzle is way below the build plate. (When I auto-home the axes, which I've done several times). I thought to just adjust the plate downwards, but it was incredib...	Just move the Z-endstop up a little higher, also make sure the bed leveling screws are not completely screwed in. So: Move the head of the printer up. Move up the Z-endstop so that the nozzle is a little higher than the build platform. Home the printer. Disable the stepper motors and move the head over the bed to a ...
How to create a support structure in tinkercad? I've created a case for my Raspberry Pi in Tinkercad and would like to 3d print it. However, I don't know how to create supports! I tried looking it up, but I got a model that I don't know how to import, and some best practices for supports. So how should I create them us...	If you're using the term "supports" to mean the extra material that the 3D printer needs to allow material to be deposited in "mid-air," your slicer will have a setting that permits this. Knowing which slicer is going to be used would enable someone to advise you directly of the location of the sett...
Prusa i3 Dual Extruder Setup Issues I have a Folgertech Prusa i3, on a Ramps 1.4 with Marlin and I use Repetier-Host to control it. I am attempting to convert it to a dual extruder Bowden setup, and I can't seem to get the second extruder to work, although the first works just fine. This is my problem: I am not getti...	Thanks to the comments, I was able to narrow down the specific issues in the firmware. The firmware version was really out of date, so I recommend finding the latest stable version. Therefore, I found the latest stable version of Marlin, downloaded it, and created my own edited version. I went line by line in configur...
Dual extruder clogging problem I have attached a dual extruder (2 in 2 out) to my 3D printer. There is a repeating problem of clogging while printing. I have fixed Chimera hotend. A big fan, which covers area more than the double extruder, cools both cold ends. An additional fan directly on the front (as seen in t...	It appears (now confirmed in your question) that you are using a Chimera 2-in-2-out hotend like depicted below: Chimera hotends generally use all-metal heat breaks (not confirmed yet) which are harder to operate than "normal" PTFE lined hotends. A common problem that happens is that heat creeps up causing problems a...
Heater cartridge connector for Original Prusa i3 MK2S I am thinking about rewiring the extruder heater cartridge. What is the connector on the Rambo Mini? I'm thinking about putting a similar connector close to the extruder to make replacement easy. I tried looking through the schematic but could find the part number f...	This is referred to as a Terminal Block Connector. More specifically this is a 2-position pluggable terminal block connector commonly manufactured by Phoenix Contact and others. Newark.com Sale Page: Pluggable Terminal Block, 5.08 mm, 2 Positions, 24 AWG, 12 AWG, 2.5 mm², Screw Larger Picture: 2-Position Terminal ...
Ender 5 Underextruding Recently I cleaned up the bowden tube and the nozzle, after that I noticed the 3D was underextruding because the walls of the prints were weak and the first layer didnt adhere on the bed. I watched some youtube tutorials on how to fix this and pulled the bowden tube until the nozzle, cleaned insi...	If you pulled the Bowden tube out of the hotend and then got this, you almost surely installed it wrong, leaving a gap between the tube and the nozzle for molten filament to fill and jam in. Remove it again with the hotend hot, and if there's a mess inside, look for guides on cleaning it. Then, to reassemble, loosen th...
Not able to insert hobbed drive and filament in the extruder drive I am building a AlfaMendel 3D printer (edited : The original question named it to be Prusa Mendel I2). I printed the extruder drive using PLA material from the STL available in the package but I'm not able to insert the hobbed drive as well as the filam...	Your parts are not in the Prusa Mendel i2 as found here or here. Also note, quote: Parts included in Github repository have the wrong dimensions for the nut traps! Download the correct version from [Thingiverse Greg's Hinged Accesible Extruder] Are you sure you have the correct parts for the original Prusa M...
Where is a reputable place to download Ultimaker Cura? I noticed that my version of Ultimaker Cura was out of date, so I tried to go to their website and download a new version. For whatever reason, I could not get the download link to work properly in Firefox with a slew of security extensions. Where are reputable ...	The answer to your question is: "From the application developer itself!". Below is the explanation how you can (directly) download Ultimaker Cura from the most reputable source: Ultimaker.com Regular download When clicking the link to download of the Cura application download button from the Ultimaker websit...
What is the melting temperature of a 3D printed part? Here is the context I've got an old car for which I have a small plastic piece who is broken. As it's an old car and a very specific piece, I can't find it anymore. So I was thinking about 3D printing it. My problem is this piece is on the carburetor, so close to t...	The number you're looking for is the glass transition temperature (the lowest temperature at which the material can flow or warp), not the melting point. This depends on what material you're using; approximate temperatures for common printable materials are: PLA: 60˚C PETG, high-temperature PLA: 95 ˚C ABS: 105˚C Nyl...
How do I remove a stuck resin print I have stuck resin print that won't detach from the bed of my Creality LD-002R LCD Printer. I guess I could break the print off piece by piece, but it won't budge with pressure, pulling with all my strength, or even hitting it pretty hard.	There are generally 3 ways, in order of least to most desirable, and at times you need to combine them in an escalation: Toss the vat. This is the most expensive and generally should only be the last resort, for example, if you damage your film. Careful Brute Force. This can damage the film, but carefully getting a we...
3D printer ends print by sinking in to it and getting stuck I am using cura with M3D entry level printer. When I print things more than 6-7cm/2.5-3inches, at the end of the print, the hot end sink back into the print then gets stuck as it tries to return to idle position. Please see the attached photo. Has anyone ha...	As can be seen from the G-code file, the head is instructed to travel to x=0, y=0 (G28 X0 Y0 is actually a homing instruction to home the head and label the position with zero X and zero Y). After that it powers off the motors (M84). From your picture, it looks like the head digs in the print without moving to the ho...
I can't install plugins on OctoPrint? I have installed OctoPi on my Raspberry Pi 3B+, that is connected to an MKS GEN L v1.0 motherboard for my 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro). When I open my OctoPrint into a browser I can use it, but I wanted to install some plugins. First time I had an error that said my server was offline...	This is a known issue (WIFI fine, but no internet connection to install plugins) and could well be related to firewall or blocking of certain ports by your Internet Service Provider (ISP). I quote from the provided link (OctoPrint issue tracker): Disabling the connectivity check did fix the repository access. The ...
Why turning off model cooling for first layer? I had few printing troubles for first layer yesterday (will certainly ask there as soon as I can take photos) but one of the things I've noticed is that the model cooling fan (the fan that is supposed to blow air on the printed model, not the fan that regulates the noozle ...	Filament expands as it gets hot. Cooling the filament will make it shrink, so cooling the filament deposited on the bed can lead to adhesion problems and warping of your products. This is exactly the reason why you use a heated bed (the delta temperature is smaller). So keep the cooling off for the first layers and you...
Sunhokey Prusa i3 axis x, y, z? My Sunhokey Prusa i3 arrived with a corrupted disc. I'm awaiting a new one and finished the mechanical build via YouTube videos. I've no clue which motor controls the X, Y, and Z, axes. I"m not even positive which axis is which. YouTube vids don't show the origin of all the wires/cable...	X-axis is right-to-left (Carriage motor) Y-axis is front-to-back (Base/Bed motor) Z-axis is up-and-down (lead screws) There are several videos on YouTube. This playlist seems good.
How to theoretically calculate the maximum acceleration? I would like to calculate the maximum safe acceleration for my printer using the following parameters as input: printhead weight torque at the desired speed steps/mm and steps/revolution microsteps Elasticity of frame and belts are ignored. The Excel file to...	You do not appear to have a correct understanding of how microstepping affects torque. What is calculated in the article you refer to is incremental torque. The word "incremental" is very important. A stepper motor consists of a permanent magnet rotor and an electromagnet stator. The electromagnets generate a magneti...
Levelling issues with BLTouch sensor; unlevel and weak adhesion I have a Creality CR-10 Max with BLTouch. After I have manually levelled the bed and set the BLTouch to do an auto level it seems to unlevel the bed and only prints one side of the bed. However, it’s not sticking to the bed properly as it can easily move t...	I have the same printer, but what are you printing, is it an stl that you created yourself or that came standard with the printer? In the beginning, I had the same when printing the models that were delivered with the SD card. Can you check your settings as well on Cura, maybe the adhesion type is set to raft then the ...
How can I tell if an STL model will need supports? How can I detect if a generated STL model will need to be printed with supports? Context: I have a pipeline which parametrically generates OpenSCAD models, generates the STL, and sends them to the printer. I would like to (a) automatically detect the cases where supp...	You could try to: Slice with slicer (Cura in my case) with support enabled. Search for text: TYPE:SUPPORT G0 F1800 X237.873 Y184.24 G0 X233.869 Y183.237 ;TYPE:SUPPORT G1 F1500 E562.81355 G1 F900 X233.579 Y183.939 E562.91577 G1 X233.368 Y184.67 E563.01816 If it exists, then try to call it again: Use auto-orientation ...
Does the Elegoo Mars printer support additional file formats? I recently bought an Elegoo Mars 3D printer. Generally speaking, I'm quite happy with it. But, I don't care for the slicing software, Chitubox. Does the Elegoo Mars support other 3D file formats? I have tried *.stl files, but they don't seem to work with ...	It also works with the .photon format of the Photon slicer. It is only marginally better than ChituBox though.
Should I be doing PID auto-tuning with my fan at 100% (Anet A8) I'm using an Anet A8 with Marlin 1.1.6. I've read countless guides on PID auto-tuning and never saw that the fan needed to be on, but when I look at the Marlin source code's ANet A8 configuration (here: example_configurations\ANet\A8\Configuration.h) it s...	You should run the fan at what you expect it to be at the majority of the time it is printing. If you tune at 100% fan and never use a fan then it will be too aggressive, if you tune at 0% fan and use the fan then you will struggle to maintain/reach temperature.
Nozzle heats while autoleveling (or before) When I'm auto-leveling my Anet A8 with Marlin firmware, the nozzle heats to 195°C during the leveling process, which leaves drops of filament. I checked the resulting G-code but makes no sense to me: M107 M190 S55 ; set bed temperature and wait for it to be reached M117 Hom...	I am using CURA as my slicer, and it sets the bed and nozzle temp before printer start code is executed. You can easily check that by opening a file in a notepad and see, that there will be a few lines describing the job, nozzle and bed setting temperature and the user code that is inserted in printer properties screen...
Adhesion issues using AmazonBasics PLA I am a neophyte at 3D printing. My Ender 3 is now 4 days old and I modified it out of the box with a glass bed. My first print was a fairly complex item, but a mere 90 x 160 x 3.5 mm. Used the sample filament that was included with the 3, first print was a keeper. Today I ...	Answer taken from OP's question **Fixed it!** Reset bed height to clear nozzle by 0.04 mm. Printed on raft. I appreciate the answers.
Tuning PID parameters for hotend I have a TEVO Tornado that I messed a bit with, so basically now I have: MKS GEN 1.4 board TMC2130 stepper drivers E3D v6 hotend A few days ago the heater cartridge so I replace it with the old one that was on the hotend of the TEVO Tornado. Now ideally both should be 40 W from...	Issue was with PID tuning nothing to do with the hardware. I switched to a duet wifi and used the auto tuning of the reprap firmware and now it is just working beautifully. I guess I was doing the manually tuning in such a bad way and the auto tuning on marlin was not working correctly for me.
Missing top layers in Cura I've just tried to make some small labels with embossed lettering. Base is 1.5 mm, with letters and a perimeter protruding by another 1 mm. After printing, I realised that Cura is not giving me a top layer, all I get is an inner and outer wall for the perimeter and the lettering: The base ...	What is your source model? Typically this "missing layer" effect happens if the source has a wall thickness less than the size of the extruder nozzle selected. Cura will view that part of the model as non-printable. Meshmixer and TinkerCad (among many others) will allow you to set and change thicknesses in the mode...
Hictop 3d printer upgrades? Where can I go to upgrade this printer? It's a hictop prusa i3 3d printer. Where do you buy heated beds suitable for ABS and PLA? Also, what kind of extruder do you guys think I should buy? This is were I bought it from. http://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Desktop-Accuracy-Self-Assembly-Tridimen...	Assuming your electronics are open source (such as RAMPS), you can buy upgrades and spare parts from pretty much every 3D printer spare part provider out there, as long as they suit your needs and the specs of your printer. In other words, if you want make a headbed upgrade, find some bed that i.e.: Fit the size of...
How to execute firmware command from gcode I wrote a command in Marlin firmware which changes Neopixel color based on extruder temperature. In my start G-code for I set the color to white. How to execute my above command from the end G-code so that the the color changes per request?	As your color is based on the temp reading, as far as I know, there is no G-code to read a temperature and push that value to another command. The way you can do it is: Static color change - use same method as you are setting to white Intercept firmware temperature reading function and push that value to led module
Hall Sensor Diagnostic I'm looking for some help with an ID3 Glacier Point 3D printer that I currently use. The hall sensors on one end of the X and Y axes have stopped functioning. I need to diagnose and confirm that the hall sensors are faulty before I can replace them (work stipulation.) I'm wondering if anyone can ...	It's really pretty easy to diagnose a Hall effect sensor. If you plug the sensor into the board (so it has power), then wave a metal object (screwdriver tip should work nicely) very close to the head of the sensor, the light should go on if it's reading. If the light doesn't come on, there's an issue. An issue would mo...
I mistakenly used 90% ethyl alchool to scrape some PLA off my bed; did I ruin it? I just printed my first cube from my newly arrived Artillery Sidewinder X1. I am totally new to 3D printing but I managed to correctly unbox, assemble and prepare it for printing. I used PLA filament and the cube ended up great. I removed...	First of all, let's look at what kind of bed you have. According to a review, it is a "porous ceramic coated glass surface." Your bed is fine... Glass and almost all ceramics are virtually impervious to most liquids, be them alcohol or even most acids unless that acid is hydrofluoric acid. So on a chemical st...
Squential Printing: Some objects are too tall and cannot be printed without extruder collisions The following setup seems printable. Why do I get this error? Some objects are too tall and cannot be printed without extruder collisions.	The error message explains that you cannot print your objects sequentially as they are too tall for the gantry to go back to the bed level after the first object. In other words, your clearance between bed and gantry is too small.
Slic3r settings for flat slopes on top I am having trouble printing a hollow object using Slic3r. On flat slopes on top, there are gaps that I cannot get fixed. The perimeters of successive layers just don't cover each other. Cura however adds filament to cover the gaps. The bottom left bunny is sliced with Slic3r 1....	This seems to be a recurring problem with Slic3r. Slic3r appears to have problems with perimeters that are not attached to infill. I suspect that it is getting confused on what is the inside and what is the outside. I know that seems a bit silly; but as you slice an object with indentations (like the bunny's face) t...
How to automate printing of multiple parts continuously? I would like to print multiple parts continuously (non-interactively), so I can leave the printer alone for a longer time. So after finish, parts could be moved somehow out from the printing area, so the next can start. Are there any methods of achieving that wi...	The only thing I can think of off hand is an old mod for the early MakerBot machines. It first was released for the Thing-O'-Matic I believe, but is compatible with Replicator 1 machines (and its knock-offs). Here's the Thingiverse page, but look up Automatic Build Plate. Essentially, you can use the Replicator G slic...
Slicing problem - Slic3r prusa I'm trying to slice this model: https://www.shapeways.com/product/VVNUVZ6JL/dread-warrior?optionId=66361748&li=user-profile I'm using a .4mm nozzle and .1mm layer height. When using slic3r some of the layers seem to just not get generated. You can see this on the horns. It also has...	It's a nozzle size issue. The model contains a lot of details which is really challenging to print with a 0.4 mm nozzle. A big nozzle is just not able to print such fine details. You should switch to 0.25 mm or 0.15 mm. Just try to set a smaller nozzle in your slicer. There is a nice article on Prusa's...
Creating a 3D modelled "mold over" an imported object Let's say I've made a 3D scan of my face and managed to get that into FreeCAD. How might I then create an object (it's a mask, okay?) that conforms to the shape of my face, with a given thickness, such that I can export and 3D-print that part only? So if I printed i...	Instead of using FreeCAD, I would import the mesh data into a vertex-based 3D modeling software, such as blender. After stitching the model in any areas where you still have gaps, you remove any vertex belonging to areas you do not want to use for the mask. This leaves you with pretty much a skin-tight base for your ma...
How to print a voxel object? I recently downloaded Magicavoxel to give this voxel thing a try, and I was curious if there was a way to turn the voxel files into a file for printing? Magicavoxel doesn't seem to offer a way to export the project as STL.	Magicavoxel supports export as .obj, natively or with the right plugin. While .stl is the standard for 3d-printing exchanges, as it contains a "1-unit" length,(typically that corresponds to 1 mm), .obj is also accepted by most slicers. To get to MagicaVoxel's native export, look in the lower right corner, click expor...
Problems with the right Z axis My 3D printer was working perfectly, but one day I put it inside an acrylic box and put it to work, that was not a good idea, because the Z axis grabbed the box, after that, the Z axis started to rotate strange, I even tried to change the wires between the motors and the drivers, but it d...	I've had this happen before on various Prusa i3 style printers, especially with my homemade tight self printed POM linear bearings for the Z linear shaft. The problem is that the right side Z axis has some sort of friction caused by a skew frame, probably caused by the incident you had earlier. You need to check whethe...
What are the pros and cons of writing nozzle size vs using e3d style dots on nozzle? e3d uses this scheme to mark the size of their nozzle: How do I read this scheme? Do we read the second row of dots after completing the first row of dots or we read 1 dot from row 1 and second dot from row 2 the again 3rd dot from ro...	dots First of all, reading the dot pattern: for all but the 0.15, the total number of dots is read, and there is only 1 dot per side. So a .5 nozzle has dimples on all sides. The only outlier where the dots are not all one next to another is 0.15, which has 2 dots but they are interspaced by one blank side. 0.25 0.3 0...
Bed size and nozzle homing offset in Marlin 1.1.9 firmware This is driving me up the wall, hope somebody can give me some advice... I have an Anet A8 (metal frame, so 'AM8'). Bed is the original 220x220 mm. When the nozzle is at the X/Y end stops it is positioned 16 mm 'west' away from the bed (in free spa...	The original Anet A8 has: // The size of the print bed #define X_BED_SIZE 220 #define Y_BED_SIZE 220 // Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions. #define X_MIN_POS -33 #define Y_MIN_POS -10 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE #define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE #define Z_MAX_POS 240 ...
First 3D print made up of diagonal strands Just got a Creality Ender 3 yesterday. Set it up and ran the dog test print. Photo below. I used the sample filament that came with the machine. I'm not 100 % what kind it is, but assuming it is 1.75 mm PLA. No matter what temperature I set the end and bed, when I ...	Based on your comment to the comment of 0scar: When I go to Fillament, I get: E in mm3: On; Fil. Dia. 1.750 That's almost surely the problem. Unless the model was sliced for "E in mm3", this setting needs to be off. What it does is change how the printer interprets extruder moves in the G-code: rather than in lin...
How to attach insulation to Hot End I bought some heating block cotton to insulate the exposed surface of my hot end. I thought the yellow as double-sticky but it appears to be Kapton. What can I use to attach it to the extruder? My extruder is already covered on four sides. I want to cover the other two.	Kapton tape would be the logical material. It's unfortunate that your vendor did not supply that as a separate item, rather than sticking it to the "cotton" (I'm guessing not actually cotton, as things might get a bit scorching for cotton, so I'm assuming some type of ceramic fiber or the like.)
How to print edible food? I would like to print edible cookies or ornamentation for a cake. Is printing with edible materials achievable by standard thermoplastic-like 3D desktop printer? Or you need to buy a special printer to do that?	You cannot print edible models using a "standard" consumer 3D printer without first installing an "hot end" capable of depositing edible - normally thicker - substances as well as a suitable extruder mechanism. However, there are not necessarily any technical limitations in the electronics, software, slicers etc. in ...
CoreXY Calibration Issue I have a Tronxy X5S and I am having issues calibrating my X and Y axis. When I print a 20 mm3 cube it comes out 19.9 mm x 20.4 mm x 20 mm. I have already made the belt tensions as even as I can get them but it did not change the calibration cube size. I have added this upgrade to my printer fo...	Oscar's answer is the correct solution to this issue. My printer was printing skewed and there is a built in correction for this in Marlin. Unfortunately the X5S does not have a boot loader and I don't have an ISP programmer (yet), so I am unable to re-flash my board at the moment. In the mean time I created a softwar...
How to start a print in the center position after a change in parameters using M92 and M500 G-code I have a Core XY Custom DIY Printer, but actually I have a problem with the measure in Axis X and Y. When a print a test cube with the measure 20 mm x 20 mm 20 mm, the object printed result with these dimensions. Z = 20 m...	Every time I.m will go to print, if turn off the machine, the process to be need repeat, in other words, the gcode M500 doesn't work. This tells me that your firmware has the EEPROM support needed for the M500 command disabled. Fixing the firmware You need to update your firmware to enable storing the information in t...
3D printing source material and superglue I've seen there are several different types of source material for 3D printing. My question is: Which of those would hold up under regular Loctite superglue or plastic model glue? I'm asking because I want to try 3D printing, and I have a project in mind. But I don't want to sp...	CA glue works on PLA, especially if you're gluing parts that fit together rather than small surfaces that just touch, but I'd encourage you to consider alternatives just because there are so many more ways to attach things when you have freedom to design the parts, and non-glue approaches admit disassembly, repair, etc...
What is the point of diminishing returns on the STL refinement level in Fusion 360 on an Ender 3? When exporting an STL from Fusion 360, one must select an STL refinement level to use for calculating the maximum triangle count. For FDM printing (0.05mm and above layer heights), where is the point of diminishing retur...	I don't know that this can be definitively answered for a specific printer and all arbitrary designs. The refinement level basically determines how smooth a curved surface will turn out. The STL file format can only express an object in terms of triangular-shaped surfaces, so Fusion 360 will need to approximate a cur...
How to extract 3D information from a 3D model for calibration? I made two "OBJ" 3D models of myself using Sense 2 scanner and using photogrammetry with Meshroom. I would like to extract some information about myself to be able to scale the model properly and to be able to compare the accuracy. For example, distance be...	Extracting various measurements from 3D models is easily done using the following free online tool: https://0x00019913.github.io/meshy/ I scanned a person using the Sense 2 scanner and I compared the values from meshy for the hip and waist with those measured in real life one day after the scan: the difference was ab...
Painting Text on Model For a model that has raised text on it, how do go about painting the very top layer of text, to make it stand out from the background? Lets say I printed the whole model the same color, what type of paint would work well, and not get on the background too? Here's an example of a model that has r...	You don't provide any dimensions or sizes, but... Assuming that the text is sufficiently elevated from the rest of the model, you could use a firm solid (as opposed to soft and spongey) roller, of an appropriate width. This should enable you to paint just the text without getting paint on the rest of the model. If ...
CT Segmentation Model Intersection I am using (micro)CT data and generating 3-D models using CTAn - a SkyScan piece of software: Bruker - Control and reconstruction programs. Basically I am using simple thresholding to create 3-D model STL files. What I would like to do is get the number of voxels where the surface...	This solution assumes the following a-The scaling factor for the object is correct i.e real world dimensions . b- There is a .STL file available . c- This will take some 3ds max skill and time . Steps to be followed - 1- Take the .stl file into Autodesk 3ds max . 2- Now we are going to trace the exposed surf...
Ender 3 Calibration Cube Fail + Can't Print Circles After noticing that my ender 3 couldn't print a 'perfect' circle I decided to use a calibration cube to see if that could be the issue. These were my results: I did have some successful prints before noticing these problems but it would be great if anyone could help/...	First, check that the calibration part you have is actually a cube. Maybe you downloaded a trick 'calibration cube' model. Cura will show he overall dimensions of any model which it is slicing. Ignore any print quality issues first off. A hollow calibration cube is mainly used to check the X/Y/Z motion and so long as ...
How to add extruder to RAMBo Mini I have given up on getting the RUMBA board to work. I tried to add a P.I.N.D.A. (or PINDA) probe, but that didn’t work. I tried to add a BLTouch sensor, but that didn’t work either. Now the RUMBA board is not communicating with my PC. So I have moved on to using a Mini-Rambo but the ...	I would say that the clue is in the name, MiniRAMBo. The Mini part is related to its diminutive size and reduced functionality. Extending the board would require patching in a secondary board to the MiniRAMBo board via pins1 that may or may not exist, and would probably be more trouble than it is worth. Looking at the ...
M502 will reset all configurable settings to their "factory defaults", which settings are those? From the M502 documentation page can be read that M502: Reset all configurable settings to their factory defaults. Please note that this phrasing from the manual has been used in the question title! To also reset ...	What Marlin does when M502 is called is defined in the configuration_store.cpp file. It resets: Max acceleration Steps per mm Max feedrate / speed Min segment time Acceleration (Normal, Retract, Travel) Min feedrate Min travel feedrate Jerk settings Junction deviation Home and SCARA offsets Hot end offsets Filament ...
Delta printer distortion I have make a little test with 4 dots aligned with A tower, B and C tower. Distance W and S are the same in the stl but not in the print. I have tried diferent values of diagonal root but S always is smaller than W, and all S are equal (more or less 38.20mm) and all W are equal (more or less 40...	i bet your towers are not standing straight (vertical) or your bed is not clearly horizontal i've recreated your picture with some assumptions (for example that your SW calculates properly and your steppers and motors act well) take a look here if you deliver your printer dimensions tower height (from the base)...
Ender 3 Pro, Motherboard v4.2.7, Marlin 2.0.1 Firmware reset Upgrading motherboard to v4.2.7 How do I reset the firmware after making wrong mods?	You could download the firmware version directly from the vendor and choose the one that is supposed to be on the board when it was shipped to you. Put the bin file on the SD card from your laptop/computer and reinsert the SD card in the printer and start the printer.
Printerbot printing stringy My Printrbot is always printing stringy, despite changing the setting on my z probe by entering command M212 Z-.1 through Z-1.5, with and without a heated bed. My prints look roughly like the one on the left. How do I fix this?	The most common cause of print issues like this is incorrect first-layer gap between the nozzle and bed. You can tell if that's the problem by trying to print with a raft and/or letting the print continue for a while. If the raft helps and the print eventually "heals up" and only the bottom few mm are bad, then you hav...
da Vinci Jr. nozzle diagram Has anybody taken apart a da Vinci Jr. 3D printer nozzle? My first time trying to clean the nozzle after it jammed, I broke off the filament immediately before it gets heated, inside the nozzle assembly. The XYZprinting video, "da Vinci Jr. 1.0 - Advanced Nozzle Cleaning", shows the filamen...	After watching the video, it looks this is a Bowden style extruder. The extruder assembly is encased in the black box the OP mentions. The assembly is user removable. It appears they also include two cleaning tools Small (0.4mm?) wire to clean the nozzle tip Large (1.7mm?) rod for pushing filament down that is stu...
Does the material a bed is made out of affect the cooling time of a part? Let's say I print a part out of ABS and wait for it to cool. I could theoretically do this with several copies of the same printer, modified to use print beds of different compositions. Will the material a bed is made out of affect how long it t...	What bed material cools faster? I found an extensive list which relates various materials to their thermal conductivity, k [W/mK]; the lower thermal conductivity, the better the material insulates, and the slower the print bed will resist changes in temperature - both heating up, and cooling down. Here are the therm...
Filament moving around and not sticking to bed I have only just set up my Anet A6 today. I am trying to print a calibration box, but the print is moving around the bed while trying to print. Any ideas how to fix this? The documentation is very vague. Basically I am very new to 3D printing. I purchased an Anet A6 and h...	If the printed material moves with the nozzle, you might have several problems at hand, e.g.: adhesion, nozzle to bed distance and overall level. Nozzle to bed distance needs to be the thickness of a plain A4 or Letter paper. This needs to be at the same distance (when pulling the sheet of paper you need to feel ...
Are 3D printed gears applicable for industrial use? Are 3D printed gears applicable for industrial use? I want to print some gears with ABS. What will their lifespan be? How long will they last if I use them, for example, every day?	Survivability of parts is a very tricky topic, because a lot of factors go into it. While ABS is a common industrial plastic for molding, FDM introduces quite different challenges that can impact the time a piece lives. I can't estimate a lifetime for you, but I will illustrate why we can't estimate it for you, giving ...
How can I solve the problem of line distortions on my prints? Hello guys I have a little problem with printing. Whenever I print something there are always these lines my printer does, it's not a very big deal, but it looks rather ugly and I'd really appreciate it if anyone could help me if you know what the problem is...	As towe noted in a comment, that's Z seam. The mechanism by which it happens is mostly the same as bulging corners. The print head is moving considerably slower just before and just after the layer change, decelerating to a stop then accelerating back up to speed in order to perform the slow Z-axis move, but the rate o...
Add a laser module to Reprap Guru Prusa i3 I have a Reprap Guru Prusa i3 v2 3D printer. Here is a link to the 192 MB manual. And here is the link to the resources page for the Reprap Guru. Page 58 of the manual discusses electronics. I purchased a 5.5 W laser from an online resource (AliExpress). It has its ...	By connecting to the D9 output header (see RAMPS 1.4 shield schematic below) you only have 2 wires that represent a scheduled load and ground. You actually need to connect the positive (red) lead to the power supply 12 V and the negative (black) lead to the ground. The third wire (usually a different color) needs ...
Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini - Not reaching temperature -> screen freezes I have been having some issues with my Cocoon Create Model Maker/Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini. The hotend doesn't get up to temperature. I will go to any of the heating functions (start print, preheat, add filament, etc.) and it will begin to reheat ...	The solution was posted in a comment, as the asker hasn't posted an answer yet, it is answered in this community wiki answer: Ended up replacing the thermistor which solved the problem.
How are things like a USB casing designed for 3D printing? How are professional or regular products designed on the computer for manufacturing? Do they do it by making a 3D model and then getting it made by manufacturers/plastic factories, or the process is different? If it's by making 3D models then what kind of pro...	3D printing provides a faster method for prototyping and have always been labeled as prototyping machines. Until recently, it has been rare to see 3D printers used for "mass manufacturing". Yes, most mass-produced products start the manufacturing process with a 3D model. 3D models can be created in many different appl...
Ender 3 cracking magnetic bed My first magnetic bed mat for my Ender 3 Pro is cracking underneath. On the top side there is a bubble in the middle which prevents any viable print. The layers are probably separating. I am new to printing but have read many articles on hiccups to expect, fixes etc. I do understand these...	My personal technique for removing prints (particularly larger prints) is not to flex the mat at all. Instead, I wait until it's cool and then work the spatula under an edge and move it under the model to basically peel it from the mat. Smaller prints usually pop right off if I start with this technique from one end. ...
PMMA print distortion and inconsistencies I am working on refining my PMMA printing process and I am trying to print as close as possible to the theoretical 100 % density of the material. I am making good progress and am slowing increasing the extrusion multipliers to try and find a good set of print settings. I recent...	Commercial PMMA may soften already at 85 °C. The higher you go away from the bed, the colder the air is, so the issues solves itself. Try lowering the bed temperature, at least to exclude that as cause. The second cylinder shows the very common issue related to uneven cooling. Probably your part cooling fan is blowing ...
How to automatically add support and "base" to the model I am printing? Most of time my prints fail due to lack of support and "base" for the 3D model. I'd like to know if there is any software that can automatically check my model, and add support and a "base" to it, if required.	This program type you seek for is called a slicer. However, you got to manually choose support structure and rafting - the tricky part is getting the configuration right for your build. To my knowledge there are no slicers that decide automatically to raft unless you configure to raft always and you have to enable supp...
Why is Print Adhesion almost good, but still not right? It feels like my print is almost there, I spent a long time fine tuning the calibration with a fantastic set of G-code files from Chuck Hellebuyck. I am using an Ender 3, on which I have modified the heatbed to carry a glass sheet, otherwise factory standard. The...	Based on the pictures, this looks like the bed wasn't clean enough, thus why it didn't adhere correctly in some spots. The lifted corner is the worst, but I can see a couple more spots where the PLA didn't stick well enough, though the brim prevented it to completely lift off the bed. I would advise you to not print w...
Upgrade firmware without Slic3r and USB connection? When printing a part today on my Prusa i3 MK3, I was prompted to upgrade the firmware. I went to the website and downloaded the firmware as a .hex file. When reading the attached firmware upgrade instructions, it seems there's only one way: use Slic3r and connect the...	No, you cannot update the firmware from an SD card. Yes you can update from a Raspberry Pi (RPi). A RPi runs a Linux distribution, when you install the correct tools you should be able to update through USB using the RPi. For simplicity and time it would be an idea to lend a laptop for a few minutes.
3D printer out of normal printer (HP PSC 1315) I thought as a fun project to make my own 3D printer out of a normal printer parts + some parts out of old CD-ROM drives that are lying around. The printer of my choice is an HP PSC 1315 one. But I have these questions: Does this printer users stepper motors or is usin...	No, Printers are not good sources Common printers contain at best one stepper motor in the scanner, and it is usually too weak for use as an X or Y stepper, but for a very slow printer they might be useable, especially if you could source 2 or 4 of the same type. The main motors in the printer are almost universally DC...
Anet A8 - SkyNet3D freezes randomly at boot I have a problem with my Anet A8. It is a little strange because it does not always happen. When I turn on my printer, it freezes on boot in the second splash screen. If I turn off and turn on several times, the printer works OK. The printer firmware is: SKYNET 3D - V2...	The Anet A8 is a low end printer which works better after installing a better (read safer) than stock firmware (stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection which is considered to be a hazard). It is good that you flashed another firmware that does have thermal runaway protection. The electronics of the An...
What are ways to avoid heat creep? Printer configuration and many settings affect heat creep. Heat creep stopping extrusion doesn't necessarily involve melting the filament too high above the nozzle. All it takes is making the filament too soft. The filament may bend and wad up (the importance to avoid gaps in the h...	Things to consider (This is expanded from How is heat creep characterized?): The air volume of the cooling fan on the hotend heat sink affects the temperature gradient across the heat sink. Usually the size/geometry of the fan depends on the printer design, so the main parameter of a fan that controls air volume is t...
How should I make my PTFE tube smaller? So, some background. I bought a e3d Lite6. When assembling the hotend, the PTFE tube does not even go in 1/4th of the way. I found out that the issue was that the PTFE tube was too wide. It measured 4.26mm (outer diameter) and the heat break is only 4.1mm (inner diameter). How sh...	I would advise buying a new tube for a few reasons: PTFE tubes should be either 4 or 6 mm external diameter (for 1.75 or 3 mm filament respectively). Chances are that if your external diameter is that much off from the nominal value, the inner diameter will also be inaccurate, and this could cause a lot of problems ...
Remove the Marlin Boot screen I added a custom boot screen to marlin by adding _Bootscreen.h to the project root folder and it works fine. The problem is that the custom screen shows quickly and disappear then the marlin boot screen is then displayed for a longer time. I want to remove the marlin boot screen. I dug ar...	You can add return; command in the ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h file. void lcd_bootscreen() { #if ENABLED(SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN) lcd_custom_bootscreen(); #endif return; // Add this line

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Dataset Card Creation Guide

Dataset Summary

We automatically extracted question and answer (Q&A) pairs from Stack Exchange network. Stack Exchange gather many Q&A communities across 50 online plateform, including the well known Stack Overflow and other technical sites. 100 millon developpers consult Stack Exchange every month. The dataset is a parallel corpus with each question mapped to the top rated answer. The dataset is split given communities which cover a variety of domains from 3d printing, economics, raspberry pi or emacs. An exhaustive list of all communities is available here.

Languages

Stack Exchange mainly consist of english language (en).

Dataset Structure

Data Instances

Each data samples is presented as follow:

{'title_body': 'How to determine if 3 points on a 3-D graph are collinear? Let the points $A, B$ and $C$ be $(x_1, y_1, z_1), (x_2, y_2, z_2)$ and $(x_3, y_3, z_3)$ respectively. How do I prove that the 3 points are collinear? What is the formula?',
 'upvoted_answer': 'From $A(x_1,y_1,z_1),B(x_2,y_2,z_2),C(x_3,y_3,z_3)$ we can get their position vectors.\n\n$\\vec{AB}=(x_2-x_1,y_2-y_1,z_2-z_1)$ and $\\vec{AC}=(x_3-x_1,y_3-y_1,z_3-z_1)$.\n\nThen $||\\vec{AB}\\times\\vec{AC}||=0\\implies A,B,C$ collinear.',

This particular exampe corresponds to the following page

Data Fields

The fields present in the dataset contain the following informations:

title_body: This is the concatenation of the title and body from the question
upvoted_answer: This is the body from the most upvoted answer

Data Splits

We provide multiple splits for this dataset, which each refers to a given community channel. We detail the number of pail for each split below:

	Number of pairs
apple	92,487
english	100,640
codereview	41,748
dba	71,449
mathoverflow	85,289
electronics	129,494
mathematica	59,895
drupal	67,817
magento	79,241
gaming	82,887
ell	77,892
gamedev	40,154
gis	100,254
askubuntu	267,135
diy	52,896
academia	32,137
blender	54,153
cs	30,010
chemistry	27,061
judaism	26,085
crypto	19,404
android	38,077
ja	17,376
christianity	11,498
graphicdesign	28,083
aviation	18,755
ethereum	26,124
biology	19,277
datascience	20,503
law	16,133
dsp	17,430
japanese	20,948
hermeneutics	9,516
bicycles	15,708
arduino	16,281
history	10,766
bitcoin	22,474
cooking	22,641
hinduism	8,999
codegolf	8,211
boardgames	11,805
emacs	16,830
economics	8,844
gardening	13,246
astronomy	9,086
islam	10,052
german	13,733
fitness	8,297
french	10,578
anime	10,131
craftcms	11,236
cstheory	7,742
engineering	8,649
buddhism	6,787
linguistics	6,843
ai	5,763
expressionengine	10,742
cogsci	5,101
chinese	8,646
chess	6,392
civicrm	10,648
literature	3,539
interpersonal	3,398
health	4,494
avp	6,450
earthscience	4,396
joomla	5,887
homebrew	5,608
expatriates	4,913
latin	3,969
matheducators	2,706
ham	3,501
genealogy	2,895
3dprinting	3,488
elementaryos	5,917
bioinformatics	3,135
devops	3,462
hsm	2,517
italian	3,101
computergraphics	2,306
martialarts	1,737
bricks	3,530
freelancing	1,663
crafts	1,659
lifehacks	2,576
cseducators	902
materials	1,101
hardwarerecs	2,050
iot	1,359
eosio	1,940
languagelearning	948
korean	1,406
coffee	1,188
esperanto	1,466
beer	1,012
ebooks	1,107
iota	775
cardano	248
drones	496
conlang	334
pt	103,277
stats	115,679
unix	155,414
physics	141,230
tex	171,628
serverfault	238,507
salesforce	87,272
wordpress	83,621
softwareengineering	51,326
scifi	54,805
security	51,355
ru	253,289
superuser	352,610
sharepoint	80,420
rpg	40,435
travel	36,533
worldbuilding	26,210
meta	1,000
workplace	24,012
ux	28,901
money	29,404
webmasters	30,370
raspberrypi	24,143
photo	23,204
music	19,936
philosophy	13,114
puzzling	17,448
movies	18,243
quant	12,933
politics	11,047
space	12,893
mechanics	18,613
skeptics	8,145
rus	16,528
writers	9,867
webapps	24,867
softwarerecs	11,761
networkengineering	12,590
parenting	5,998
scicomp	7,036
sqa	9,256
sitecore	7,838
vi	9,000
spanish	7,675
pm	5,435
pets	6,156
sound	8,303
reverseengineering	5,817
outdoors	5,278
tridion	5,907
retrocomputing	3,907
robotics	4,648
quantumcomputing	4,320
sports	4,707
russian	3,937
opensource	3,221
woodworking	2,955
patents	3,573
tor	4,167
ukrainian	1,767
opendata	3,842
monero	3,508
sustainability	1,674
portuguese	1,964
mythology	1,595
musicfans	2,431
or	1,490
poker	1,665
windowsphone	2,807
moderators	504
stackapps	1,518
stellar	1,078
vegetarianism	585
tezos	1,169
total	4,750,619

Dataset Creation

Curation Rationale

We primary designed this dataset for sentence embeddings training. Indeed sentence embeddings may be trained using a contrastive learning setup for which the model is trained to associate each sentence with its corresponding pair out of multiple proposition. Such models require many examples to be efficient and thus the dataset creation may be tedious. Community networks such as Stack Exchange allow us to build many examples semi-automatically.

Source Data

The source data are dumps from Stack Exchange

Initial Data Collection and Normalization

We collected the data from the math community.

We filtered out questions which title or body length is bellow 20 characters and questions for which body length is above 4096 characters. When extracting most upvoted answer, we filtered to pairs for which their is at least 100 votes gap between most upvoted and downvoted answers.

Who are the source language producers?

Questions and answers are written by the community developpers of Stack Exchange.

Additional Information

Licensing Information

Please see the license information at: https://archive.org/details/stackexchange

Citation Information

@misc{StackExchangeDataset,
  author = {Flax Sentence Embeddings Team},
  title = {Stack Exchange question pairs},
  year = {2021},
  howpublished = {https://huggingface.co/datasets/flax-sentence-embeddings/},
}